Day 1: Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port / Orisson
Distance: 5 miles
Overnight: Auberge Orisson
Day 1 on the Camino de Santiago and the start of Kay’s and my epic 500 mile walk along the Way of St. James. We’re starting in Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port and expect it will take us a month to get to Santiago de Compostela. This is Kay’s idea, I’m just along for the ride so to speak. To ease us in to it just a short 5 mile walk today from Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port up to Orisson. The walking I don’t mind, but the communal dining, public introductions, dormitories, bunk beds and cold showers I can do without.
Day 2: Orisson / Espinal
Distance: 14.7 miles
Overnight: Albergue Irugoienea
Day 2 on the Camino de Santiago and a wet and windy 15 mile walk over the 1,344m Col de Bentarte. The col marks the border with Spain and from that point it was all down hill to Espinal. All in all quite a challenging day and a reminder, if one was needed, that this isn’t going to be a stroll in the park.
Day 3: Espinal / Larrasoanna
Distance: 13 miles
Overnight: Albergue Municipal
Day 3 on the Camino de Santiago and after spending most of yesterday fighting the elements, and gravity, today’s 13 miles to Larrasoanna was like a stroll in the park. Unfortunately the Albergue Municipal that was waiting for us was a new low on the accommodation front. Truly, truly awful and if I could have gotten away with walking through the night instead I would have.
Day 4: Larrasoanna / Cizur Menor
Distance: 13 miles
Overnight: Albergue Maribel Roncal
Day 4 on the Camino de Santiago and another 13 mile day where we made it to the gates of Pamplona on our way to Cizur Meno. We could have caught a bus back into Pamplona but after last night’s nightmare accommodation the Albergue Maribel Roncal was a paradise in comparison. The weather is improving too although I doubt I’ll be breaking out my shorts any time soon.
Day 5: Cizur Menor / Cirauqui
Distance: 16.7 miles
Overnight: Albergue Maralotx
Day 5 on the Camino de Santiago and after some tough early days, but mainly nights, I’m starting to embrace it. Today was a slightly longer 17 miles from Cizor Menor to Puente del Raina and on to Cirauqui with the best overnight so far at Albergue Maralotx.
Day 6: Cirauqui / Villamayor de Monjardin
Distance: 14.7 miles
Overnight: Albergue Villamayor de Monjardin
Day 6 on the Camino de Santiago and a 15 mile walk to Villamayor de Monjardin. We’re in Rioja wine country and Kay took full advantage of a free top up at Bodega Irache. I was hoping the wine would help lift her spirits and get her through the day because she’s struggling a bit physically and as a result mentally too. Unfortunately the drop we tasted wouldn’t win any awards and probably did more harm than good.
Day 7: Villamayor de Monjardin / Viana
Distance: 18.7 miles
Overnight: Albergue Izar
Day 7 on the Camino de Santiago and after today’s 19 miles to Viana we’ve managed to cover almost 100 miles in our first week. I must confess I’m starting to love the Camino de Santiago. Well, the walking bit for sure. The accommodation can be a bit hit and miss. And the jury is still out on the food.
Day 8: Viana / Navarette
Distance: 14.1 miles
Overnight: Alburgue La Casa del Peregrino
Day 8 on the Camino de Santiago and an easy 14 miles saw us in Navarrete by midday. A new week and a new strategy. No more dorms unless absolutely no alternative. Kay booked us in to a private room at Alburgue La Casa del Peregrino which was really nice. And lunch was off the scale too. Swordfish with waiter service. Plenty of time to visit Iglesia Santa María de la Asunción too. It was breathtaking.
Day 9: Navarette / Ciruena
Distance: 20.2 miles
Overnight: Casa Victoria
Day 9 on the Camino de Santiago and our longest walk yet with 20 miles through a lot of nothing to Ciruena. Had a strong sense of deja vu today and I think I cycled along some of today’s section back in 2013 during stage 17 of my Vuelta ride from Calahorra to Burgos.
I am little concerned I’m pushing Kay too hard and today was probably a bit too far for her. She’s beginning to suffer with her legs and feet a bit but we really didn’t have much choice in the matter. Unless we’d done two short days instead which in hindsight would have been wiser.
Day 10: Ciruena / Belorado
Distance: 18 miles
Overnight: Albergue Cuatro Cantones
Day 10 on the Camino de Santiago and I’m feeling really sorry for Kay because her feet are so sore. It was another long one today, 18 miles to Belorado. I just hope we can make it to Burgos where she can rest up for a day.
Day 11: Belorado / Ages
Distance: 17.3 miles
Overnight: Albergue San Rafael
Day 11 on the Camino de Santiago and a milestone of sorts, one third distance to Santiago. To give Kay’s feet a bit of a break I carried her rucksack loaded up with some of things today. Despite the extra weight I really enjoyed the 17 miles of undulating dirt roads to Ages. Only 14 miles and one day away from Burgos. Now that is a milestone.
Day 12: Ages / Burgos
Distance: 13.7 miles
Overnight: Hotel Abba Burgos
Day 12 on the Camino de Santiago and although the 14 miles to Burgos may have felt more 24 to Kay, she made it. We’re checked in to a nice hotel tonight and have a great apartment to look forward to tomorrow. Not sure what to expect from the cathedral in Santiago but if the one in Burgos is anything to go by it’ll be pretty special.
Day 13: Burgos
Distance: Rest day
Overnight: Apartamentos Rice
Day 13 on the Camino de Santiago and after walking the Way for 12 straight days we’re having a day of R&R in Burgos eating nice food and drinking good wine. Oh, and watching the end of today’s Giro d’Italia stage 17 into Lugano which is actually in Switzerland.
Day 14: Burgos / Hornillos del Camino
Distance: 13.1 miles
Overnight: Alburgue Meeting Point
Day 14 on the Camino de Santiago and a relatively short 13 miles to Hornillos del Camino to ease us back in to it. Finally the sun is shining and it’s starting to warm up.
Day 15: Hornillos del Camino / Itero de la Vega
Distance: 19.4 miles
Overnight: Albergue Hogar del Peregrino
Day 15 on the Camino de Santiago and to kick off our third week walking the Way a 19 mile walk to Itero de la Vega. The long 12% climb out of Castrojeriz and onto the Meseta was well worth the effort. The Meseta is a bit of a highlight of the Camino.
Day 16: Itero de la Vega / Villalcazar de Sirga
Distance: 17.3 miles
Overnight: Hostal Infanta Dona Leonor
Day 16 on the Camino de Santiago and today we walked 17 miles from Itero de la Vega to the imposing templar church at Villalcazar de Sirga.
Day 17: Villalcazar de Sirga / Caldadilla de la Cueza
Distance: 14.1 miles
Overnight: Hostal Camino Real
Day 17 on the Camino de Santiago and a momentous day because we’ve reached the halfway point of this monumental undertaking. A hot and dusty 14 miles to Caldadilla de la Cueza where the architectural highlight of the day was the impressive Monastery San Zoilo in Carrion de los Condes.
Day 18: Caldadilla de la Cueza / Sahagun
Distance: 14.1 miles
Overnight: Hostal Escarcha
Day 18 on the Camino de Santiago and a short 14 mile walk to Sahagun. One of those days where the walk seemed longer than it really was.
Day 19: Sahagun / Mansilla de las Mulas
Distance: 22.7 miles
Overnight: Hostal San Martin
Day 19 on the Camino de Santiago was a monster marathon 23 miles to Mansilla de las Mulas. It was a tricky one today because this area is a bit remote with places to stop few and far between. For sure the mileage took its toll on Kay today but on the plus side we’re only 12 miles from Leon and another well earned rest day.
Day 20: Mansilla de las Mulas / Leon
Distance: 11.6 miles
Overnight: Hotel Spa Paris
Day 20 on the Camino de Santiago and after 12 miles and almost 300 miles walking the Way we arrived in Leon. And the first person I meet is Elvis – Kings of Leon.
Day 21: Leon
Distance: Rest day
Overnight: Hotel Spa Paris
Day 21 on the Camino de Santiago was a day off the Way. Time to break the monotony of walking although we still spent the day wandering around the city, including Santa Maria de Leon Cathedral, also called The House of Light.
Day 22: Leon / Villavante
Distance: 19.8 miles
Overnight: Albergue Santa Lucia
Day 22 on the Camino de Santiago and we’re back on the Way. It’s the start of our fourth week and today was a long and emotional day. Kay’s blisters are becoming a real concern and the 20 miles we walked from Leon to Villar de Mazarife and on to Villavante only compounded the problem.
Day 23: Villavante / Astorga
Distance: 12.6 miles
Overnight: Albergue de Peregrinos San Javier
Day 23 on the Camino de Santiago and unfortunately, if we’re going to make it to Santiago, it’s looking like Kay is going to have to spend a few days off her feet. Despite today being only a 13 mile walk to Astorga it took all of her will and fight to make it and I just can’t see her walking tomorrow.
Fortunately Astorga is an interesting place, a medieval walled town and a busy little hub for pilgrims. There’s plenty to keep us occupied if we need to stay a few days including the Episcopal Palace and Gothic Astorga Cathedral.
Day 24: Astorga / Molinseca
Distance: 29.8 miles
Overnight: Hostal El Palacio
Day 24 on the Camino de Santiago and a sad, sad day today. Kay’s blisters aren’t getting any better and need a few days to recover. But we have a plan. Kay is going to bus it to Sarria and over the next 4 days and 3 nights I’m going to hoof it something in region of 95 miles and meet her there.
And the first of those 4 days was quite literally a marathon and some more. After an early start I was yomping today rather than walking and managed to cover 30 miles from Astorga to Molinseca where my reward was…
Day 25: Molinseca / Villafranca del Bierzo
Distance: 19.2 miles
Overnight: Casa Rural La Llave
Day 25 on the Camino de Santiago and another 19 miles clocked up on my way to Villafranca del Bierzo. Well on course to meet Kay in Sarria in a couple of days time.
Day 26: Villafranca del Bierzo / Fonfria
Distance: 26.4 miles
Overnight: Albergue Reboleira
Day 26 on the Camino de Santiago and less walking the Way, more like hiking the Way. Today I left Castilla y León and crossed into Galicia and I have to say some of the tracks were quite rough. I know for sure Kay wouldn’t have enjoyed the climb over the 1,337m Alto do Poio. I’m loving the terrain though and managed to cover another 26 miles on my way to Fonfria.
Day 27: Fonfria / Sarria
Distance: 17.2 miles
Overnight: Aqua Rooms Sarria
Day 27 on the Camino de Santiago and this is a happy day because the team is back together. During the last four days on the Camino I’ve hiked from Astorga to Sarria, up and over mountains, and covered 92.5 miles. Unreal. This morning I walked the final 17 miles into Sarria and if I was in any doubt whether I was in Galacia, then the horreo on my way down from Alto do Poio confirmed it.
Nice view from my bedroom window in Sarria. Shame those bells went off on the hour, every hour.
Day 28: Sarria / Portomarin
Distance: 13.9 miles
Overnight: Albergue Aqua Portomarin
Day 28 on the Camino de Santiago and so glad to see Kay smiling again. Although her blisters are still uncomfortable the rest she’s had over the last few days might just be enough to see her through to the end. And after today’s 14 miles to Portomarin it feels like the end is in sight.
Church of San Xoan of Portomarin – an unusual temple-fortress because it’s designed to be both a church and a castle.
Day 29: Portomarin / Palas de Rei
Distance: 15.4 miles
Overnight: Pension Palas
Day 29 on the Camino de Santiago and our final week walking the Way. Just another day on the Camino except the countdown has started and after today’s 15 miles to Palas de Rei we’re only 2 or 3 days away from Santiago de Compostela.
Day 30: Palas de Rei / Arzua
Distance: 18 miles
Overnight: Pension Arzua Alburgue Turistico
Day 30 on the Camino de Santiago and today was a truly peaceful 18 miles of undulating woodland pathways to Arzua.
Some consider me to be determined, others single-minded – or perhaps I’m just pig-headed? Probably all three but you should ask Kay after a month walking the Way with me.
Day 31: Arzua / Pedrouzo-Arca
Distance: 11.8 miles
Overnight: En Ruta SCQ Pension
Day 31 on the Camino de Santiago and a mere 12 miles walked to Pedrouzo-Arca. Not sure what thoughts are running around Kay’s head but for me, towards the end of the day near Alto de Santa Irene, there was a lovely wooded section. And it struck me that this time tomorrow we’ll be in Santiago de Compostela and it will all be over. Feelings of sadness and relief in equal measure.
Day 32: Pedrouzo-Arca / Santiago de Compostela
Distance: 12.5 miles
Day 32 on the Camino de Santiago and after a final 12 miles, and close to 500 miles walking the Way, we arrived in Santiago de Compostela. Coincidentally today is the 800th anniversary of Magna Carta.
And with a little over 3 miles remaining I finally bid a fond farewell to my worn out boots and gloves. I loved those boots. Had them for more than 15 years. And a month on the Camino killed them.
